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2CVGB News article – SPOG January 2017

Another Christmas present arrived here over the festive period from a fellow Club member much to the gratitude of Taffy and the SPOG Team. Indeed I’ve often heard it said “SPOG has little available for the disc brake 2cv?” However things are gradually changing and, following this friend’s most gracious donation of the appropriate tooling moulds for the manufacture of fibre-glass 2cv rear wing protectors, here comes another SPOG part on the list for these particular vehicles.

The lower most aspect of the leading edge of the rear wing is very prone to road spray damage particularly if the front wing’s mud flaps are in poor condition or actually missing. Rust/decay soon appears with the rear wing eventually breaking away from its fixing bolts. Not good for an MOT pass.  As a possible preventative measure fibre-glass rear wing protectors were commonly fitted to cars twenty years ago although now such items have seemingly disappeared. But not any more thanks to such help, indeed isn’t this what a Car Club is all about?

These protectors can be glued in place or drilled out where the pilot dents are (with similar holes made in the wing) to then be attached by stainless steel fixings of the enthusiast’s choice. I personally favour the nut and bolt approach to fitting, but not before a liberal amount of grease (or anything else water-proof) is smeared on the tin-ware under the protector.

Therefore welcome to SPOG Part 243009 2cv rear wing protectors left or right at £18.00 each (or £35 the pair, 243019) including VAT for a Club Member with full SPOG Member discount terms applying.

I’ve had six pairs made up as a trial of interest, five white and the one black, these colours being in the gel coat surface although more of either colour can be easily made depending on demand. However you may want to paint these protectors a different shade to match your car. If so please remember you are coating fibre-glass and therefore would recommend some research as to how this is done. If/when you succeed with the paint please let me know too as I’m always in search of further knowledge.

And that’s why I took a box full of 2cv wiring loom to the last TROY Club night asking “how do I fit relays so that I can upgrade the head-light bulbs from standard to Halogen examples on my ’87 2cv? This was the car I worked on to bypass the dim/dip resistor. I had heard from elsewhere that folk had broken into the main wiring loom on the bulkhead and soldered in suitable connections here in order to fit relays. But the consensus of opinion around the odd glass of ale at TROY was to the contrary.

Firstly, when you think of it, the majority of 2cvs are well over 25 years old. I’m told that the copper strands inside cables deteriorate with age, especially if moisture can get in. This tends to render the inner wire brittle and less “sticky” making soldering more difficult. Plus how does one know which green wire supplies what within the spaghetti cluster? Turn on the headlights and go searching with a needle probe and circuit tester is an answer although it is unlikely that the required live wire will be identified at the first attempt.

Therefore when using a needle probe a number of holes could well be made in the insulation sheaths of inappropriate wires and if the moisture couldn’t get at these cables’ central core before causing decay, it can now. A dab of nail varnish could help keep the water out but why risk it? Therefore I was advised to pull apart the push-fit connections in the wiring loom near the head-light bar and find the relevant live wires there for connecting relays which is exactly what I intend to do.

But first one needs some car electrical tackle to do the job. As both the dip and main beam power lines for Halogen bulbs need relays in order to protect the light switch on the steering column from burning out, then two relays are needed. But what if they could come in the one unit? That would make things easier. They do in the form of a twin 30 Amp 12 Volt Relay as pictured. I bought mine from Car Builders Solutions of Kent (01580 891309 for their extensive catalogue … thanks Mike for the information).

Next if I’m fitting the relay block to the bulkhead I’m going to need some cable to run from the connectors at the light bar up to this unit and back. Looking in the Haynes manual it would appear that the main beam power feed is colour-coded yellow, the dip circuit being green. So why not buy yellow and green cable? I did. Similarly I understand that the switch side of the relay does not take a heavy current, so 8.75Amp yellow and green cables will suffice. However the power feed to the Halogen bulbs to and from the relay will be much stronger, hence I’m using 17.5Amp cables. That’s ten metres of all four cables purchased…I’ve got more than one car to convert.

But take care here because there is normal 2cv type electrical cable and the modern more common thin-walled stuff which doesn’t look the easiest for stripping ends and fitting crimp connectors. Indeed I’m told that older type thicker cable is actually harder to find. I bought mine from Vehicle Wiring Products of Ilkeston (0115 9305454 for another catalogue) where they are able to supply “old fashioned” cable in a variety of colours.

And finally something I really didn’t know until the discussions unfolded during TROY Club night. Would you believe that the head-light electrical circuit in a 2cv is not fused?! If the wires in the black plastic block which push-fits onto the back of the head-light bulb become detached to then come in contact with the shell’s fixing bolt to the light-bar or the inside of the shell itself (if it is a metal one) then a dead electrical short can occur. And I know what that means with a severely damaged, burnt out Citroen Romahome sitting on the drive!! Electricity is potentially dangerous stuff!!!

To finish the supplies for head-light bulb conversion I bought two in-line fuses, which I’m personally modifying for the heavier duty cable.  These will be put into the power lines from the battery source to the relay unit and be fitted with 10Amp fuses.

And so now to do it…another day.

David Eden

SPOGman