Welcome to the SPOG 2CV Parts article April 2018
Congratulations Scotland for beating France at Murrayfield in the Six Nations Rugby Tournament on February 11th. It was great fun driving my Dolly to be part of the 2CV Ecosse procession through Edinburgh’s streets welcoming the French Supporters to town. And what a cheer these rugger fans gave us as we waved and hooted our arrival. Many thanks to James Storrar and our Scottish 2CV members who organised this wonderful experience, see you again in two years time.
But besides hooting and hollering in our cars around the Edinburgh capital there was a more formal side to this occasion. The winners of the game at Murrayfield were to be presented with the newly commissioned Auld Alliance Trophy which honours the war dead from both countries in this centenary year of the 1st World War Armistice. Indeed the Captains of the Scottish and French Teams of 1914, who both later died in the conflict, are specifically commemorated on this Trophy along with their fellow team mates.
In respect of the importance of this Rugby Match we 2CVers were invited to park outside the French Consulate in Edinburgh where we were given a buffet lunch. In return 2CV Ecosse presented the French Ambassador with a bottle of 30 year old Malt Whisky (lucky fellow) along with beautifully engraved tumblers depicting 2CV Ecosse and the 70th Anniversary of the 2CV. Makes you proud of our Club n’est ce pas?
Drive it Day 22nd April is fast approaching. I will be lining up in my 2CV with a host of other Classic Cars alongside York Race Course, the Knavesmire, after 9.00am with a 10 o’clock set off to the Sherburn in Elmet Aero Club Fields. We cross the newly re-built Tadcaster Bridge (remember the dramatic pictures of 2015’s Boxing Day floods) on our route. The Aero Club has a Cafe on site and my usual sausage/bacon sarnie awaits. This is a free entry Event, so if you want to be part of York Historic Vehicle Club’s day out, please join me on the Knavesmire.
New SPOG Part announcement, please welcome Part Number 714092 2CV/Dyane plastic bumper insert stud fixing kit. A Series vehicles of the 1960’s (also fitted to later cars as an optional extra) had plastic strips (black or grey) fitted down the middle of painted bumpers thereby hopefully protecting them from minor shunt damage caused by the likes of Paris parking. Although the plastic seems to survive the passage of time, the fixing studs tend to rust/seize making removal of the insert strip practically impossible (without fastening destruction) for purposes of re-painting the metal bumper. The securing bolts of the two end caps also seem to suffer a similar fate.
714092 fixing kit contains five stud insert plates with all the necessary plain/spring washers and nuts, everything manufactured from stainless steel. Likewise two domed phillips headed bolts, washers and nuts etc. for the end caps, again stainless steel. This kit costs £7.20 including VAT for the 2CVGB Member with the usual SPOG discount scheme applying if you have invested in the scheme. And if you would like to know more about SPOG and how to invest, please visit our web-site www.2cvgbparts.co.uk and all will be revealed.
Lastly the notorious A Series front drum brakes which, if such a vehicle is owned, you’ll know that these brakes are not the easiest to work on because the wings have to be removed in order to gain proper access. And if your car is an Ami 6 or Dyane, this isn’t a two minute job compared to the average 2CV. Even then such work can be a pain as I discover all too often with my own 1981 front drum brake 2CV.
In my mind there are too many variables that require constant attention in this particular system for everyday use. Whether the cars have 200 mm or 220 mm front drum brakes (same size wheel cylinders although different 4.5 mm or 3.5 mm pipe inlets) the potential problems are many. Firstly the gearbox drive-shaft out-put seal can fail (I’ve had that) causing gearbox oil to ooze out, get inside the drums and contaminate the brake shoe surfaces. Not the best idea.
Next, the brake wheel cylinders themselves can leak or seize the latter being common if the vehicle is not used very often. And with these braking systems using DOT 3/4 and the fluid being hygroscopic (absorbs water) internal corrosion is a real problem potentiating such leakage and or partial/full seizure … had all these too over the years.
Similarly there is the ever present difficulty of centering the shoes to achieve equal braking on both sides, also maintaining this status quo remembering that the shoes have a habit of seizing on their own internal eccentrics. And if that’s not enough, reaching the adjuster cam 14 mm bolt heads awkwardly positioned behind the drums has its own problems … setting the shoes too far off the friction surfaces causes excessive free play at the pedal. Am I ever going to stop this car?? However with the shoes too close to the drum, then heat builds up in the system “frying” the wheel cylinder seals causing brake fluid leakage and again shoe contamination. Guilty m’Lord, life with a drummer is fun at times!
Over the years I have often thought how can I improve things? Indeed several years ago when I rebuilt my 1975 Vert Tuilerie drummer, I completely abandoned the front drum brake system (shock horror) and fitted a LHM disc brake gearbox set up complete with tandem “green” master cylinder/reservoir and LHM compatible rear brakes. Never been a problem since. However are there any possible changes to better my 1981 car without undertaking such a drastic change?
Here I want to point out that there are at least two different types of front drum brake wheel cylinders (besides pipe inlet diameter) the more common being fitted with either O rings or the wider and probably longer lasting lip seals. What if??? So with the help of fellow 2CV chums we are privately (not SPOG but maybe later depending upon interest) investigating the possibility of a stainless steel lining to the wheel cylinder plus s/s metal pistons with the wide groove to accept a lip seal. But you can’t get LHM compatible lip seals, although we think we have now solved that problem too. So in effect you could run a LHM front drum brake system with all the benefits (wheel cylinders less likely to rust, leak or seize etc.) of using this type of brake fluid. Yes, the rest of the braking system would need upgrading but at least the front drum brakes would be less of a problem … hopefully.
This brake cylinder conversion isn’t cheap, however if you want to know more please e-mail me via the address at the front of this Magazine.
SPOGman for SPOG 2CV Parts